Toulouse: The Seattle of Europe? Part 2

BUT!

Toulouse is not the only city referred to as ‘the Seattle of Europe’; in fact, if one were to take a deeper look at all of the places bearing that title, as one is about to, Toulouse would emerge relatively insignificant.

Remember me saying that a full 50% of the search results for ‘toulouse “the seattle of europe”‘ were actually about Norway? Turns out if you Google just “the seattle of europe” (double quotation marks needed, otherwise you’re served only flight offers) you get five different candidate cities in just the top ten hits. And if you click on the second hit, a site ironically called ‘seattlest’ though I doubt the creators meant that the way I’m reading it, you get a whole list of cities claiming to be the Seattles of their region, country, or continent. Some of them contradict each other, and Toulouse is not even to be found.

I won’t list those cities here; you can look at the site yourself if you’re that interested, but I will name certain contenders, as well as their reasons for being such, and hopefully it won’t be as time-consuming as the search for clarity concerning Toulouse.

Bergen, Norway is mentioned on several sites as being the Seattle of Europe for its heavy rainfall and general overcast-ness. Apparently the terms ‘City of Rain’ and ‘the Seattle of Europe’ are synonymous. I guess that would make sense, as Seattle is known as ‘the rainy city’. Does that make Bradford the Chicago of Europe? The UK is supposedly the windiest country in Europe, and Bradford is a pretty windy city, though apparently Newcastle dwellers purchase more anti-flatulence products. Nah, I’m not seriously trying to garner that title for Bradford, though as you’ll see in the next paragraph, it certainly wouldn’t be the most whimsical christening. But just before that – remember when I said the phrase ‘the Chicago of Europe’ sounds farcical? Apparently Mark Twain wouldn’t agree, as he used that precise description on Berlin, Germany, so I will of course defer to his opinion, though he admits the parallel does break down. Really I just wanted to get Bradford into this somehow.

One blogger has named Belgium the Seattle of Europe simply because it rains a lot there, and a few others have done the same with Amsterdam. The site I mentioned before that ‘may harm my computer’ says – going by the two-line description Google gives of search results – that Seattle “seems to be closer to Amsterdam than Toulouse”. I feel like this website contains all the answers to every question this post has raised and could ever raise, but I won’t see them because the site potentially contains malware. Typical.

We persist. A columnist calls modern Switzerland the Seattle of Europe, but fails to elaborate, unless it’s because of the ‘viable economy, no visibly poor, and “an amazing ability to reconcile modern technology and modern economics with traditional mores and the visible presence of the past”‘; in short, the ‘consummation of the bourgeois revolution’. I wouldn’t know. Any Seattle-ites willing to venture an opinion? I’d welcome it on any point of this two-part discursion.

Back in North America, Austin is called the Seattle of the south, Boston the Seattle of the east, Halifax the Seattle of Canada, Iowa the Seattle of hardcore, and Machinima the Seattle of media. Pity most of the links are now dead. I do know from The Classic Crime that Seattle has a big music scene; punk-rock according to them, but also jazz according to Doc Wiki.

France itself has several claimants to the throne other than Toulouse, such as Champagne, for reasons unknown, or Rennes, in which apparently it rains much also.

It’s interesting what you can learn about something by who or what is named or names itself after that thing, though one must always be wary of such secondhand information, the Christ being example par excellence. What’s also interesting is that this naming business brings to mind what the lecturer in my Australia class (yes, I have a class devoted solely to the entity that is Australia, but in the interest of keeping this parenthetical aside shorter than what I want to say about it, let’s save all that for another time) was talking about last week. When people move to a new place, especially one where they will live for a long time or even the rest of their lives, they give names to places and things based on where they’ve come from, to increase familiarity and make the new place home. Australia is rife with such examples, and perhaps there is some of that in all these ‘Seattles’ as well. Even if the people moving to Europe or the region in question are not from Seattle, they may be comforted by assigning their new home a somewhat familiar name. Or perhaps calling it that prior to moving makes it less intimidating a change. But I also think there’s more going on than just that.

Despite the smacking satisfaction of discovering something very similar to something previously known, and the accompanying temptation to call the new by the name of the old (which explains why How I Met Your Mother has been able to make doppelgangers a recurring motif throughout the show), such expressions at times thinly veil a degree of arrogance. By calling something new to me by a name less new to me, I am not merely making the new seem familiar, I am implicitly asserting that the new offers nothing that the old did not already. To be so colonial with cities is heinous; to do so with people, unforgivable. Sadly I am certainly guilty of the latter. After a certain point (somewhere between five hundred and a thousand Facebook friends, I reckon), not all those you meet are ‘new’ people, but rather new versions of old friends; they fall into various categories. And yet, gratifying though this may initially be, it is ultimately dangerous, as those new acquaintances will surely fail to live up to the identity of those we’ve associated them with, for they are not them, and it is also demeaning to them, for, again, they are not them. The same applies to cities. There may be similarities, but reducing the identity of a thing so complex, diverse, and wonderful as a city to a single story is woefully unhelpful. In the words of one commenter on the Seattlest website, “[I]t indicates a deep lack of civic self-esteem.” Even if the intent is by the city itself to boost its repute by attaching itself to the name of a better-known city, this still shows a lack of self-esteem; a lack of appreciation for own uniqueness. That this too applies easily to people, I doubt I need to highlight.

Don’t get me wrong, I love the concept of sister cities. Such programmes can provide excellent cultural links, but this would never lead to one city being called or even known by the name of the other. After all, what parents would give their children the same name (besides George Foreman, that is)? Their kindred-ness is evidenced by their similarities and love for each other, not identical names. So in answer to the question topping the Seattlest page – ‘sister cities or identity thieves?’ – I must reply that it is neither, it is simply a case of mistaken identity.

To wrap up, some evaluations. Firstly I propose that we dispense with calling a city a Seattle merely on account of its abundant rainfall or even amplitude of overcast days. Rain and clouds are not unique conditions; most of the world experiences them, and many places experience them in plenty. That Seattle is already known as ‘the rainy city’, I cannot do much about, but let us not behave as if it has a monopoly on the condition, nor as if that is the defining characteristic of Seattle. Even without having been there it is clear to me that there is far more to this urban area than the weather. If we were to select a proper noun to denote a general meteorological temperament, surely we would wish not to rob that noun of its other connotations by using it for such a purpose. In other words, calling Bergen the Seattle of Europe does Seattle a disservice, because it dispenses with all the characteristics of Seattle not mirrored in Bergen, which are likely everything but the rain; it does Bergen a disservice for the same reasons as well as the implication that Bergen has nothing worth knowing in its own right, by its own name; and it does the rest of Europe a disservice by ignoring all its other rainy cities.

At a more basic level, the phrase invites confusion, as it relies on everyone possessing the same primary connotation of Seattle; that is, rain, when in fact we have already seen that there are a number of viable connotations one could hold. ‘The Seattle of Europe’ could be a rainy city, a musical city, an aerospace city, a coffee-drinking city, or any other type of city that springs to mind in relation to Seattle, accurate or not. Ideally it would be all of these things for it to indeed be a true Seattle, but could that ever really happen? Would that even be desirable? Not only with regards to rain, but whenever describing, let us be wary of reductionism.

As for the aerospace parallel between Toulouse and Seattle, I have not much left to say. Seeing as its usage seems to be not very widespread but rather contained to the industry which it describes, the potential for confusion is mitigated. Those using it would know what they are talking about, as would those listening to it being used. The fateful instance of me in class which led to this lengthy endeavour was probably a one-off.

You may’ve guessed by now that I will not be introducing the city in which I now live as ‘the Seattle of Europe’. However all this has made me want to visit Seattle even more, to see what all these imitators yearn for. How about you? Have you come across any other cities that come up a lot in the descriptions of other cities, or places in general? Do you have places you fondly refer to by the names of places you used to know?

[I also realise that I love writing about cities; after all, I love cities (making it all the more interesting that my favourite album from my favourite band is called Cities). Perhaps I will make it more of a habit.

Thank you all for reading.]

Toulouse: The Seattle of Europe? Part 1

Today in my cross-cultural management class the professor mentioned offhand that Toulouse is ‘the Seattle of Europe’, and I had no idea what he meant by that. Maybe I would’ve had some clue if I’d ever been to Seattle, but alas that is one place in the US (and the only region of the US, actually) that I’ve yet to visit. I’d like to – Adam Young’s lyrical invitation would suffice, but I also know that Starbucks is from Seattle, and Starbucks is one of a few things that make me feel cool, ambitious, and full of potential. With these sentiments as a backdrop I naturally wanted to know what the professor meant by his statement, but like a 21st century university student I, rather than simply asking, resolved to Google it when I got home.

(Kids, whenever you find yourself resolving to Google something when you get home – or more likely, Googling it right then on your handy-dandy smartphones, while my dumbphone looks on exressionlessly – that you could actually ask someone, get your nose out of that screen and ask them. You need the practice.)

I have just Googled it now, and though the answer is proving recalcitrant, the search phrase ‘toulouse “the seattle of europe'” seems to have yielded some fruit. The top hit apparently ‘may harm my computer’, but seeing as only four results have appeared and two are about Norway, it’s tempting. The second hit is a thread about south France on a hot springs forum – how unexpected, and potentially gratifying on other counts than my current objective – in which the OP describes Toulouse as “a 2000 year-old city that still has plenty of buildings that are really ancient. It is also the Seattle of Europe, since that’s where Airbus is located. I did not go on a tour of the plant since I am a Boeing fan, especially since they located their new facility here in coastal South Carolina, and I might have slipped and said something and gotten ejected.” Nice aviation pun.

You might think ‘since that’s where Airbus is located’ is a fairly straightforward phrase, and perhaps to you it is, but it took me further Googling to fully flesh out this hot spring soaker’s meaning. As usual Google did not disappoint; in fact, I didn’t even have to click on a hit, so capable are their data-gathering bots these days.

Are you ready? Toulouse is not just host to an Airbus plant, it is the headquarters of Airbus. The headquarters of Boeing is in Chicago (gotcha!)…but only since 2001, before which it was in Seattle; in fact, Boeing was founded in Seattle. I suppose that excuses the seeming outdatedness of the expression, as presumably (read: if Wikipedia can in this instance be trusted, and I believe it can) Airbus, being only  about forty years old as compared with Boeing’s near-century, was founded in Toulouse. Not to mention that Chicago is already known for plenty else, the esteemed deep-dish pizza among the foremost, and anyway ‘the Chicago of Europe’ sounds farcical. [If you have a comment on this last point, you may want to save it until you’ve read Part 2 as well.]

So there you have it. Rival airplane manufacturer – and it was only after coming to Toulouse that I learned how strong the rivalry is (and that classifications such as 737, 747, and 777 apply only to Boeing models; Airbus uses A320, A350, A380 and the like, and yes, I did learn that from an Airbus employee here) – homes make Toulouse ‘the Seattle of Europe’, and of course the European is named after the American, though in this case considering the corporate age difference I can’t really complain.

If you are satisfied with that explanation and in general enjoy resolution, read no further. I myself am not satisfied and intend to delve further, with no guarantees of ultimate resolution.

It’s probably just that part of me that screams, there’s always a deeper meaning! Everything is connected, everything can be explained! that is egging me on now as always. But you see, we weren’t talking about Airbus and Boeing in my cross-cultural management class. We weren’t talking about airplane manufacturing. I suppose we were talking about globalisation and, at that specific moment, tourism, which is connected to the decrease in flight prices, but our focus was people, I thought. Maybe my memory fails me. Someone said something, and it was in reply to this that the professor said, ‘Yes, well, they do call Toulouse the Seattle of Europe,’ but I can’t remember the comment that led to this reply. Still, bad memory or no, I can’t shake the lack of final-puzzle-piece-falling-into-place feeling from all I’ve said thus far. Perhaps the professor’s comment was truly offhand, as I flippantly wrote at the start. It’s those kinds of comments that drive people like me crazy.

Beyond that, I don’t find the existence of the factory or even headquarters of a rival in a duopoly adequate grounds to refer to one city by the name of another. The Airbus HQ is not the defining characteristic of Toulouse nor, I think I’m right in saying, its sole sustenance. As the aforementioned bathing traveler noted, it has over two thousand years of history, and even now, there is much tourism, shopping, and other commerce, not to mention my university-dominated immediate environs. And I’m sure there’s more I have yet to discover.

Okay, as I’m basically talking out of my- well, just talking, I suppose I should go looking for some sort of evidence. Google once again avails itself, and I find this very knowledgeable-sounding blog entry. I know blogs aren’t the most reliable of sources – after all, if I’d left the previous paragraph alone, you might’ve departed being disastrously misinformed! – but on this one I’m flying by the seat of my pants. Said blog informs us that in the US, “for every aerospace job there are 1.9 indirect jobs created and 1.5 induced jobs; thus one aerospace job creates 3.4 jobs.” Taking into account the 21,000 Airbus/EADS employees in Toulouse and its population of about 1.1 million (the figures are all probably a bit higher now), 9% of the metropolitan area population, or 25-30% of families here depend on this activity for a job. So it’s a little more essential than I thought.

That’s a lot of data you probably weren’t that interested in, but I think we can both agree it’s a lot better than me rambling about shopping and drunken student life. At the Toulouse Wikipedia page, which I should’ve visited far sooner than this, it says that Toulouse is the centre of the European aerospace industry, with the headquarters of not only Airbus but also a major positioning system, a satellite system, the largest space centre in Europe (visit-worthy?) and several other satellite subsidiaries (it also calls the ‘world-renowned’ University of Toulouse “one of the oldest in Europe (founded in 1229) and, with more than 97,000 students, the third-largest university campus of France,” so, holla). This is all starting to make more sense. Now it’s Seattle’s turn.

I’ll spare you the nitty details of that search. I think it’s fair to say that Seattle, while perhaps not the centre of the American aerospace industry – other cities such as Wichita, Kansas, claim a share of it – is certainly a major centre, with Boeing, involved in both air and space, and defence, formerly and still at its heart. According to one website (not Wikipedia, in fact, though as this is not an academic paper I’m not refraining from citing that notorious fountain of knowledge), the Seattle metropolitan area has the highest concentration of aerospace industry jobs in the world.

This is all far more satisfying. Seattle is a centre of aerospace industry in America with Boeing at its core; Toulouse is a – and even the – centre of aerospace industry in Europe with Airbus at its core. So to call Toulouse ‘the Seattle of Europe’ is, I must say, fair enough.

(If you sensed a looming ‘but’ at the end of that sentence you are correct, but I shall save said looming butt for Part 2. You could head straight over there, or you could take a brief interlude to listen to some of what has formed my conception of Seattle.)

Bon Voyage

[Today’s entry is slightly shorter than the others, mainly because I didn’t write enough down on the actual day and now, three weeks later, I don’t remember squat, but also partially because I did less on this day. Took it easy after all the effort; relaxed in the afternoon, did some reading. In a way, what I’m doing in these first few weeks in France – reading and writing – is what I should’ve been doing all summer. Ah well, as one high school English teacher used to say, ‘Better late than dead’. The quotes that stick in our heads, eh? But my activity today, or lack thereof, should explain the format; most of this is thoughts I had at various points throughout the day.]

You know, it is a fight to go out – to go out again today, trying to get this paperwork done, encountering numerous obstacles. I have to will myself into doing it some more and not just staying in this room. Again, I’m sure there are countless exchange students, new missionaries, and others the world over who’ve been experiencing those feelings for decades. I can now relate to them firsthand, a skill that will certainly not remain unused throughout the rest of my life.

I went this morning to try again for my student card. Yes, I know they told me Friday, but that seems like a very long time from now, and if the disorganisation thus far is any indication, not everything they say is written in stone. Sure enough, this time the guy, though he laughed slightly when he saw me, told me jeudi, quatorze-heure. Thursday at 2 p.m. That’s tomorrow. Boom. Persistence.

Speaking of persistence, I also went to the international office to see if the woman had sent our papers back to Bradford that would release our funding. She hadn’t and asked me to come back tomorrow. I highly doubt she will have done it by tomorrow, but I’ll keep coming back. I’ll be the very essence of graciousness each time, but I’ll keep coming back. That’s my plan.

[Whatever you think of that plan, I didn’t actually go back until more than two weeks later.]

Right before I went into the office I ran into a group of French-speaking ERASMUS students and the French girl helping them asked if I needed to go down and do the payment for my student card along with them. She asked in French! And she didn’t recognise me as one of the English speakers, so she asked it at full speed! And I understood! I didn’t know how to respond in French, so I said, ‘Yesterday’ in English, but I understood the question! I will get this.

Went shopping after that; had to withdraw some more money from overseas, hopefully this’ll be the last time.

*     *     *

I was just thinking about when we arrived at Toulouse-Blagnac airport. We swept out of there so quickly – waiting for our suitcases at baggage claim was by far the most time-consuming. The immigration officers or whatever they’re called asked us no questions, they simply (for me) turned to the French visa in my passport and stamped it. Coming to the UK the first time I had to produce my CAS letter, possibly other documents, and they asked me questions. I thought that the laidback-ness of our arrival in France boded well for the registration process and all other formalities awaiting us. It did not, it was a severe anomaly.

[This is the other complaint I referred to earlier that you are meant to take with a grain of salt. It’s not so bad, and like I said then, they gave us mini-fridges! Means I don’t even have to go to the kitchen and risk running into a French person when I wanna munch. That was a joke. I am practicing my French by speaking to French people, yes I am.]

But I’m not just tired of all these formalities, I’m tired of complaining about them, so for both my sake and yours I hope they pass quickly so I can go on to telling all of you about my lectures, my interactions with French cultures, my hilarious language goofs (for that I need to be far more daring – I promised myself I would be), and the people I meet. I’m sure they will; the first few days always seem the longest and hardest. But telling myself that doesn’t help as much as I want it to.

*     *     *

I guess one thing that makes it hard is feeling like a burden, what with not being able to speak even a minimal level of French. If anyone told me I was a burden on the system, I would angrily retort that the system is a burden on me, and that would be true. But I still feel like a burden, coming into their country and expecting them to, at least somewhat, condescend to my level. I need to at least repay them for that kindness.

What also came to me today is that the reason I’m so frustrated with the language barrier is not just that I can’t communicate, but that I can’t express myself. Language has so much to do with how I convey my identity and persona to others that, excluding that, I feel so little. They don’t know me. I don’t fully exist. Now, part of that is valid, and useful to know about myself, but it’s not alright that I am so focused on me and my conveyance of myself. I should be about actions, not words and impressions.

*     *     *

In the distance I see a plane rising into the sky (my window faces the airport, though I can’t see it). Do I wish I were on it?

[Perhaps I should interject that the reason this question comes quickly to my mind whenever I see a plane in the sky is that several years ago, after having been asked at numerous points through my life what I considered home to be, I came up with the following definition: home is where you can look up at a plane in the sky and not wish you were on it. So now I, unbidden, perform that test quite often.]

No. I’ll stick this out a little longer (by a little longer, I of course mean the entire year). I just need to find something to sustain me here, like City Vaults Sunday night jazz in Bradford.

Another reason I don’t wish I were on that plane is that landing in Toulouse on Sunday was the second time in my life I have felt a searing pain in my head during a plane’s descent, and when I say searing, I mean searing. As in it feels like something behind my left eye is growing and trying to escape. My eyeball starts watering and seems about to pop out, every nerve around it is on fire, little pinpricks on my forehead feel like needles stabbing from the inside out, and generally I get the impression my left brain lobe wants to get as far away from my right as possible. It’s awful.

I don’t like to complain about pain, I mean, I am male. I wasn’t even going to write about this originally, but as I’ve been flying all my life and this has only started happening in the past few years, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little worried. The first time was on a flight from Japan to the US last summer. Same sensation. I looked it up a few days after arriving, and at least I’m not the only one who’s experienced it (one of the joys of the internet). Apparently it’s caused by fluid filling some chamber in the head at high altitude, and then expanding as the atmospheric pressure builds. I’ve had some trouble off and on with nosebleeds in my life, and those are always from the left nostril, so some of my piping back there must be wonky. But since I didn’t feel it on my flight back to the UK, I thought (hoped) it was a one-off. Seems it wasn’t. I’ll have to do some more research, especially on potential remedies.

Because it’s not just about being able to comfortably use the fastest form of transportation currently available to mankind. It’s not just that I enjoy flying and want to continue to enjoy it. Flying, for me, is much more than those things; it is far more sentimental.

No, I don’t have childhood ambitions to be a bird or Superman that I’m secretly clinging to (though some of you might take issue with the latter claim). But I have been flying longer than I can remember. I’ve lived in a lot of different places, and airplanes have taken me between almost all of those places. You could say that the cabin of a jumbo jet has been a relatively constant physical location (with irony as my elixir) throughout my life, something I cannot say for any house in which I’ve lived. So air travel is a glue that holds all my life experiences together. After long periods without it, I miss flying like I imagine other people miss their hometown. As for the place I sometimes call my hometown, Yokohama, well, yes, I love it there, but I love it because it’s cool. I probably have stronger feelings for Tokyo and my high school, but Yokohama is cooler so I call it my hometown. I’m not sure that’s completely legit.

Going back to the previous point, I suppose that the reason my definition of home is so useful for me is that it’s not merely asking if I wish I were in a different place, it is asking if the place I am in right now beats being on a plane, a wondrous long-haul plane flight, with all the home-ness I attach to that experience. To be told that I cannot, or probably shouldn’t, experience that anymore would be, in my mind, akin to someone who finds out that they, for whatever reason, cannot return to their home, though I don’t wish to trivialise those actually in such situations. I realise that my mentality, or perhaps sentimentality, rather, is born very much of first world privileges.

There’s more I could say about this, such as that one thing I like about being on a plane (long-haul, of course) is that for the duration of that journey, everyone is from the same place and they are going to the same place. There is none of this pesky, ‘Where are you from?’ business. And likely some of what I have said could be said in a better way. But I will do that at a later date, in a far more polished form. For now, these are some of the thoughts flitting through my head as I watch that jet (Airbus-made, perhaps?) climb away from Toulouse-Blagnac. If you’re a fellow TCK I would love to hear your thoughts on what I’ve said, or even if you’re not a TCK, I suppose.

That’s Wednesday.